By: @dermahealthnutrition
Many cosmetic and skincare formulations contain actives that claim to be anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory, will scavenge free-radicals, are lift, firm, and/or tone the skin. Let’s take a look at how skin changes over time in order for you to individually target your most relevant needs.
Studies have shown that we perceive skin as being “aged” primarily because of changes either in skin structure, pigmentation and/or loss in skin elasticity. Skin aging is mainly driven by two forces. First, biological “normal” cell changes over time called intrinsic skin aging. Second, environmental aging due to harmful effects called extrinsic skin aging. While we can’t influence the first, extrinsic skin aging can be positively affected through a conscious lifestyle. Every day you can actively reduce extrinsic skin ageing by making conscious choices like choosing not to smoke, limiting alcohol consumption, limiting your exposure to environmental pollution, choosing high quality, non-toxic and active skin care products, and eating a whole foods diet. Below is a list of some of the ingredients and topical skincare products I recommend for improving various skin concerns.
Skin Structure
Goal: regulate maturation, hydrate upper skin levels and promote barrier function
What to use: moisturizers, humectants (hyaluronic acid), peeling agents (AHAs, BHAs), and retinoids (vitamin A derivates) or phyto-retinol. Avoid cleansers that aggravate the skin barrier
Pigmentation
Goal: diminish irregularities of pigment, especially diminish melanin production
What to use: Retinoids (vitamin A derivates) or phyto-retinol, antioxidants, sunscreen, Niacinamide, and DNA repair enzymes
Skin Elasticity
Goal: promote collagen production
What to use: Retinoids (vitamin A derivates) or phyto-retinol
Above All: Prevention
Goal: reduce free radicals, inhibit inflammation and collagen degradation from UV-radiation
What to use: Sunscreen and antioxidants (Vitamin C, Vitamin E, ferulic acid, niacinamide, CoQ10). Avoid ingredients that aggravate or weaken the skin barrier
References:
Zargaran D, Zoller F, Zargaran A et al. Facial skin ageing: Key concepts and overview of processes. Int J Cosmet Sci 2022; 44: 414-420
Juncan AM, Moisa DG, Santini A et al. Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals. Molecules 2021; 26
Krutmann J, Bouloc A, Sore G et al. The skin aging exposome. J Dermatol Sci 2017; 85: 152-161
Zouboulis CC, Ganceviciene R, Liakou AI et al. Aesthetic aspects of skin aging, prevention, and local treatment. Clin Dermatol 2019; 37: 365-372
Wong QYA, Chew FT. Defining skin aging and its risk factors: a systematic review and meta-analysis. Sci Rep 2021; 11: 22075
